Drum brakes are still used on the rear axles of many smaller and budget vehicles, and on older vehicles all around. They work differently from disc brakes – shoes press outwards against a rotating drum from inside, rather than pads squeezing a rotating disc from outside. Replacing drum brake shoes is more involved than disc pads but still well within the reach of a careful DIYer.
Symptoms of Worn Shoes
Reduced rear braking force, the parking brake travelling further than usual or not holding the vehicle on a slope, scraping or grinding noises from the rear when braking, brake dust around the rear wheels, and a low brake pedal that improves after a few pumps (caused by the self-adjuster failing to keep the shoes close to the drums). Drum brake shoes can last 80,000 km or more on most cars because the rear brakes do less work than the fronts.
Tools and Parts Needed
You will need a brake spring tool (a special pliers that can compress and remove the return springs without slicing your fingers), a hold-down spring tool (or strong needle-nose pliers), brake cleaner, new shoes, new return springs and hold-down hardware (the springs lose tension over time and should be replaced with the shoes), and possibly a drum puller if the drums are stuck on the hub. Buying a complete brake hardware kit is much cheaper than buying individual springs and far easier than salvaging the old ones.
Replacement Procedure
Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the rear, support on stands, and remove the wheel. Release the parking brake. Remove the drum – on most vehicles, the drum slides off after backing off the self-adjuster slightly through a small access port in the backing plate. Some drums are held on by retaining screws or washers. Stuck drums often release after striking them with a brass or copper hammer or using a drum puller.
Take a clear photo of the existing brake assembly before disassembling anything. Drum brakes have many small parts that all need to go back in the right place and orientation. The photo is your reference. Then disassemble: remove the return springs, hold-down springs, parking brake lever, self-adjuster mechanism, and finally the shoes themselves. Inspect the wheel cylinder for fluid leaks (a sign it needs rebuilding or replacing) and check the backing plate for grooves or wear.
Install the new shoes, hardware, and springs in the reverse order, using your photo as reference. Adjust the self-adjuster so the shoes just barely touch the drum when it slides back on – the drum should rotate but with light drag. Refit the drum, the wheel, and the brake. Apply the brakes a few times to allow the self-adjusters to take up final clearance. Test the parking brake. Bed in the new shoes with several moderate stops before driving normally.
Drum brake configurations, shoe types, and adjustment procedures are vehicle-specific. MechanicMate offers PDF workshop manuals for over 960 models at mechanicmate.net/shop.
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