Tie rod ends connect the steering rack to the steering knuckles, transmitting steering input to the wheels. They are wear items that develop play over time, causing wandering steering, uneven tyre wear, clunking noises, and alignment issues. Replacement is a straightforward DIY job that should always be followed by a wheel alignment.
Symptoms of Worn Tie Rod Ends
Loose or wandering steering at highway speed (the vehicle drifts and requires constant correction), clunking or knocking from the front end over bumps, uneven tyre wear (often with feathering on one edge of the tread), the steering wheel position changing relative to straight ahead, and a vehicle that does not hold an alignment after adjustment. To check tie rod ends, jack up the front of the vehicle and grab the tyre at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions. Try to rock it side to side. Any noticeable play indicates a worn tie rod end (or sometimes a worn ball joint or wheel bearing – inspect carefully to identify which).
Inner vs Outer Tie Rod Ends
There are two tie rod ends per side. The outer tie rod end attaches to the steering knuckle via a tapered stud and is the easier of the two to replace. The inner tie rod end (sometimes called the inner socket or tie rod) attaches to the steering rack and is more involved to replace because the rack boot must be moved aside and a special inner tie rod tool is usually required to break it loose. Inspect both – the outer ends typically wear out first.
Replacing Outer Tie Rod Ends
Loosen the wheel nuts, jack the vehicle, support it on jack stands, and remove the front wheel. Loosen but do not remove the lock nut on the threaded shaft between the inner and outer tie rod ends. Mark the position of the outer end on the threads with paint or count the threads visible – this lets you fit the new one at approximately the same position to maintain the toe alignment until you can get a proper alignment.
Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the tapered stud at the steering knuckle. Use a tie rod end separator tool (or a pickle fork, though this damages the boot) to pop the tapered stud out of the knuckle. Unscrew the old tie rod end from the threaded shaft, counting turns. Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns. Insert the tapered stud into the knuckle, fit the castle nut, torque to specification, and fit a new cotter pin. Tighten the lock nut. Refit the wheel and torque the nuts.
Get an Alignment
Even with careful thread counting, replacing tie rod ends affects toe alignment. Always have the vehicle aligned at a workshop after the job. Driving for any extended period with incorrect toe destroys tyres rapidly. See our alignment guide for more on what the alignment shop measures.
Tie rod end torque values, separator tool requirements, and removal procedures are vehicle-specific. MechanicMate offers PDF workshop manuals for over 960 models at mechanicmate.net/shop.
— MechanicMate . Questions or a second opinion? [email protected].