CV (Constant Velocity) joints allow the front driveshafts to transmit power while accommodating the up-and-down movement of the suspension and the left-and-right movement of steering. Each front driveshaft has two CV joints: an inner joint (near the transmission) and an outer joint (near the wheel hub). When a CV joint wears out, it produces a distinctive clicking noise when turning and can eventually fail completely, leaving you stranded.
How CV Joints Fail
CV joints are packed with grease and sealed by a rubber boot. The boot is the weak point – it cracks, splits, or tears from age, road debris, or contact with hot exhaust components. Once the boot is compromised, grease leaks out and dirt gets in, wearing the joint rapidly. If caught early (boot torn but joint not yet noisy), replacing just the boot and repacking with grease can save the joint. Once the joint is clicking, it needs replacing.
Symptoms
A rhythmic clicking or popping noise during low-speed turns (like in a car park) that speeds up with vehicle speed is the classic outer CV joint symptom. A vibration or shudder under acceleration that is worse in a straight line often indicates a worn inner CV joint. Grease splattered on the inside of the wheel or visible around the CV boot confirms a torn boot. See our noise diagnosis guide for more on identifying CV joint sounds.
Replacement Options
You can replace just the CV joint (disassemble the driveshaft and swap the joint) or replace the entire driveshaft assembly (much faster and often not significantly more expensive). Complete driveshaft assemblies come with new joints, boots, and clamps pre-assembled. For most DIY mechanics, the complete assembly is the better option as it avoids the need for snap ring pliers, a press, and the risk of incorrect reassembly.
Replacement Procedure (Complete Driveshaft)
Raise the vehicle on jack stands and remove the wheel. Remove the hub nut (this is typically a very high torque fastener, 180 to 280 Nm, and may require an impact wrench or a long breaker bar). Disconnect the lower ball joint or control arm to allow the steering knuckle to swing outward, giving clearance to slide the driveshaft out of the hub. At the inner end, the driveshaft either slides out of the transmission or is bolted to a flange. Your workshop manual shows the exact method for your vehicle.
Install the new driveshaft in reverse order. Make sure the inner joint snap ring clicks into place in the transmission (you should feel it seat). Torque the hub nut to specification and install a new split pin or stake the nut as required. After refitting the wheel, check that the driveshaft spins freely and that there are no leaks from the transmission seal.
Vehicle-Specific Details
Hub nut torque, ball joint separation method, inner joint retention type, and transmission seal considerations vary between vehicles. Your workshop manual covers all of these. MechanicMate offers PDF workshop manuals for over 960 models at mechanicmate.net/shop.
